Rediscovering the Festive Fizz of Lambrusco

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Tommaso Chiarli of Cleto Chiarli estate, where seven different lambruscos are made. “Mistakes were made by this industry in the 1980s by not stressing quality,” he said, “and we’re trying to correct them.”

Credit
Clara Vannucci for The New York Times

MODENA, Italy — Most wine lovers dismiss lambrusco out of hand. It’s burdened by the notion that it’s pink, sweet and fizzy, like the cheap versions that flooded America in the 1970s and ’80s. But only the fizzy part is consistently accurate.

Lambrusco is wine made from grapes by the same name and most appreciated here in its home, the Emilia-Romagna region of northern Italy. Though it lacks the complexity of the country’s most celebrated wines like Barolo, lambrusco is rarely sweet, and makes a fine partner…

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