What to Cook: ‘Sweetbitter’

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Lemon and garlic chicken with mushrooms.

Credit
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

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Good morning. I’ll tell you what: I didn’t want to read “Sweetbitter,” Stephanie Danler’s first novel, about a young backwaiter (or what we used to call a busboy) at what Gabrielle Hamiltion called “a barely fictionalized Union Square Cafe,” where Danler once worked. I spend a lot of time in restaurants already. I write about food for money. My feeling was, I don’t need to go home to read about those things for fun.

But I was facing a 22-hour flight to New York last week with a computer filled with a lot of…

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